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The Philosophy of Terroir: Why We Trust Wild Fermentation

Andriy Prokopovych
time17.07.2026 00:41
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Winemaker Taras Vynohradnyi explains why Kraftova Vynorobnia chooses minimal intervention and wild fermentation.
What makes a wine alive? At Kraftova Vynorobnia they are convinced: honesty toward the grape and trust in nature. Winemaker Taras Vynohradnyi speaks about the philosophy behind every bottle of his author's wines. "We do not add cultured yeast. The grape arrives from the vineyard already with its own microflora — the wild yeasts that live on the skin. They are the ones that start fermentation, and they are what make the wine unlike any other," he explains. This approach is called minimal intervention: no artificial flavourings, no excessive filtration, no rushing. Ageing lasts as long as the wine itself needs, not the calendar. For the winery, terroir is not an abstraction but a concrete union of soil, the climate of the Sumy region and the chosen grape, including fruit from the Odesa slopes. "Wild fermentation is a little risk and a great deal of respect. You do not control the process, you accompany it," Taras adds. That is why every batch is unique, and why the winery deliberately stays small. The natural style demands attention but gives depth and character that cannot be reproduced industrially. More about the approach, the wines and the team's story can be found at www.biologist.com.ua, where notes from each season are published.
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The Philosophy of Terroir: Why We Trust Wild Fermentation | Ukrainian Cuisine